Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
